Don't Run - 革命性的3D制鞋测试生产线




3D打印技术出现后,一直在关注,尤其是制鞋领域的应用。

设计师Eugenia Morpurgo和Juan Montero,之前设计出了很方便的可以自行修补的鞋子,设计非常的简单,虽然在设计感及舒适性上可能有问题。

最近Eugenia Morpurgo和Juan Montero推出Don't Run测试生产线,将设计,3D打印机,激光切割机...连成了一个开放的,协作的生产线。

与传统的批量制鞋和手工制鞋不同的是,这种方式,用户可能有更多的参与感。

对于设计师而言,不需要非常专业的制鞋技术,就可以通过这套生产线定制出有设计感的鞋子,而且组合是无穷尽的。

另外就是传统制鞋,鞋楦是一个很大的支出,而利用这套生产线就可以减少这个支出。

一套非常有创意,实验性性的生产线,虽然仍然有很多问题,但却具有革命性,期待后续能有更多的可能性。

官网:http://www.dontrun-beta.com



更详细的英文介绍:

Don't Run - Beta is a pilot production line initiated by Eugenia Morpurgo (IT) and Juan Montero (GB/SP). 

It is an experimental system focused on illustrating the possibility of a transparent, open and collaborative production line for shoe making and design. Taking a step away from the established status quo and the relentless pursuit of quantity and profit. Don't Run - Beta is intent on highlighting a possible alternative to mass production through small scale on demand digital fabrication. 

The decentralisation of large scale production and distribution makes it possible to offer greater localised control to both designers and consumers. Creating a system for design that is accessible, flexible and with components that invite repair,adaptation and intervention based on a dialogue rather than and definite blueprint. 

Don't Run - Beta has created a template which offers greater personal understanding and shared responsibility throughout the products lifecycle and demands a higher physical relationship between the point of conception and consumption. This shift in system transfers shoe production from factory floors across the globe to self contained high street factories in towns and cities. Proposing new roles for the consumer who becomes the co-worker, student and teacher.


Don't Run Beta shoes - System 

Design innovation:

Rapid manufacturing machines such as laser cutters and 3D printers work in sync to create small scale on demand components. The system is developed in a way that eliminates the need for stitching or gluing during the assembly process. This combined with simplified assembly methods a limited amount of components and the specific use of materials and technologies in the soles, connectors and the uppers, mean all individual components correspond to one another in an easy and systematic way. 

The strength of reversible connections permits reparation throughout the products lifecycle. Facilitated disassembly also means components can now be disposed of and recycled according to their material properties once they come to the end of their cycle and a shorted production chain results in a system for prototyping and production that is quick, economical and easy and that works within rhythm of production embracing its limitations.


Technology of production:

Molds for the soles of the shoes create the first big investment in production. Traditionally two of each number will be necessary for every model. To cover the cost of such investment large-scale production is essential. This generates the need for large-scale storage and in turn results in a stock surplus. Together these become some of the biggest expenses for shops and companies. 

With demand from Industry to generate maximum returns and profit they create a sheer volume of products that are the result of compromise. Restricted dialogues often leave us knowing little if anything about how or where our products originate.

As the Don't Run - Beta system works with CNC technologies. Physical molds are replaced with digital data, creating unlimited digital libraries of soles, sizes and styles. This effectively reduces the need for any real physical storage and helps to eliminate as much as 75% of the current production process. Importantly it also allows us to bypass the huge initial economic investments implicated in shoe production. 

This use of digital allows real time innovation, customisation and change all possible through meaningful dialogue. Every shape and size can be accounted for and produced onsite where the controlled stock of raw materials is transformed into a product only in the presence of real demand. Giving control back to the designer and subsequently offering consumers greater choice and a better understanding of the production process. A process that takes approximately one hour from start to finish.

Don't Run - Beta's produces a versatile system for design that today can produce a shoe and tomorrow can adapt and grows to produce bags, lights and any other product that follows the same simple steps we have applied.


Every shoe has a face - A transparent system for design:

Don't Run Beta is essentially an open call for designers. The power of a flexible system for designing and making means that the possibility for customisation and new combinations is endless. We gave the template to three different shoe designers. Sophia Guggenberger created a closed shoe, Eliska Kuchtova designed a summer shoe and Anastsija Mase designed a sandal.

Entrusting each designer with the autonomy and responsibility to design. They were invited to develop and produce a pair of shoes based on the Don't Run - Beta system, working within the constraints of our production method (i.e no stitching or gluing) and with the use of prototyping technologies. They were challenged to submit designs for production that are technically quite different from traditional shoe design and construction. 

We established an online relationship to track progress, working together at each stage in the development of the shoes, from the first prototype through to final production. 

This working method only becomes possible to us through the use of CNC technologies. As a fraction of the initial investment is needed for the complex assembly, machinery and tools normally associated with shoe production. These traditional methods have been replaced with technologies much cheaper to buy and available for rent. It means designers can see patterns and prototypes take shape in just a matter of hours and there designs become data capable of being stored and transported on something as small as usb stick ready for production.


Made in collaboration 

Design of uppers – Sophia Guggenberger, Anastasija Mass, Eliška Kuchtová

Photo – Federico Floriani

Illustrations – Francesco Zorzi 

Graphic communication – Olivia de Gouveia























标签: 鞋子 设计 创意
关于作者
李季 不要着灯,能否先跟我摸黑吻一吻
  • {{ comment.commentator.username
    点赞!鞋子感觉挺舒服的样子。
    2014-03-27 22:05
  • {{ comment.commentator.username
    非常帮的想法,感觉还是存在很多量产问题!一定会火!
    2014-03-28 13:53
  • {{ comment.commentator.username
    很棒的想法,但还需要很长的路要走。
    2014-04-01 10:32
  • {{ comment.commentator.username
    cool!
    2014-04-01 14:24
  • {{ comment.commentator.username
    @sukan 感觉是舒服,可也感觉随时会散架似的 囧
    2014-04-02 19:49
  • {{ comment.commentator.username
    @kakanuo 不会吧,反而觉得很潮
    2014-04-02 20:53
  • {{ comment.commentator.username
    好想买一双!!!
    2014-11-03 18:00
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